The wooden-fronted buildings of Mino, so modest in their simple beauty, hide glowing treasures inside just waiting to be discovered. I had come away for the weekend with Yoko and her daughter En, new friends in Japan, for two days to see how the artists here are using handmade paper, to experience my first Onsen (hot springs) bath, and to stay in a traditional Japanese Inn. Lucky me. This town is famous for handmade Washi paper due in part to the purity of the water from the